How Swiftlet’s Nest Became One Of The World's Most Extreme Foods

Deep in the jungles of Southeast Asia lies a complex labyrinth of near impenetrable caves. Ranging in size from little more than holes to colossal cathedrals of stone, these caverns are home to a wealth of creatures that call the rocky fortresses home. For people to hunt here takes not only bravery, but prodigious skill. Operating in near darkness and using the most rudimentary of tools, these environments are among the most dangerous working conditions found anywhere on earth. Yet, every day, thousands of people risk their lives here to fill the demand for one of the world’s most extreme foods.

In caves such as Gomantang and Niah in Borneo and on the aptly named Swiftlet’s Nest Island in Thailand, hunters risk life and limb to harvest the nests of the critically endangered cave swiftlet. Using a lattice of rickety bamboo ladders and rope pulleys, locals remove the cup-shaped deposits stuck to the cave walls. The environment is treacherous and accidents are common. Despite the risks, their harvest could be worth thousands of dollars.

How Swiftlet’s Nest Became One Of The World's Most Extreme Foods

On the face of it, Swiftlet’s Nest seems like the last thing that people would want to eat. Formed from the congealed saliva of two species of small bird, the nests themselves range from pure white to muddy brown in colour. When added to a bowl of broth, the dried nests transform into a gelatinous mass and provide a unique texture and somewhat sweet flavour. Nests are valued according to their purity, with lighter colours the freest from contaminants such as feathers and faeces.

Despite its unappetising origins, Swiftlet’s Nest is steeped in a rich history. Famously prized by Chinese monarchs and ruling classes as a key component in lavish banquets and celebrations, the soup is still believed by many to be the dietary equivalent of the fountain of youth. Traditional Chinese and East Asian medicines teach that Swiftlet’s Nest consumption can improve skin, respiratory health and libido as well increase one's lifespan. Whether or not there is any evidence for some of the food’s more outlandish health claims is a topic of some debate among scientists. However, testing has revealed that the nests do contain high levels of calcium, iron, potassium and magnesium, giving credence to the idea that Swiftlet’s Nest may well be a radical health food.

Fuelled by this compelling combination of science and superstition, demand for Swiftlet’s Nest has exploded in recent years. A kilogram of white nests can today fetch up to $2,000, while the even more prized red nests command more than $10,000 for the same weight. The global industry is worth an estimated $5bn annually, and the product is popular from Hong Kong to the United States. With such financial reward on offer, it is little wonder that so many people remain willing to risk their lives.

When any natural resource attracts such high demand, the potential for overexploitation is never far away. Whenever a nest is harvested, it takes an adult bird more than a month to rebuild it, making it doubly difficult for mating pairs to successfully raise their chicks. In many places, harvesting has proved devastating. Caves that were once filled with flocks several million strong are now all but empty; a situation not only damaging for the animals themselves, but also for the communities that rely on them. In many places, corporations have sought to seize control of the most valuable caves, doing untold damage to the delicate ecosystems that live there.

It’s not just the environmental damage that makes Swiftlet’s Nest such an extreme food. In several countries, the law demands that anyone looking to harvest Swiftlet’s Nest must pay sizeable concessions to the government. These taxes are often so great that businesses and individuals will look to protect their investment at all cost. In Thailand, some businesses hire private armed militias to deter any would-be trespassers, and there are several reports of locals and tourists being subjected to gunfire for getting too close.

The danger of the profession, the risk to the environment and the desperately hostile attitude of certain organisations has made it abundantly clear that an all-natural approach to Swiftlet’s Nest harvesting is no longer viable. As a result, some enterprising farmers have looked to create artificial environments for the birds, where their nests can be gathered in relative safety. Though these new environments still rely on the same rudimentary gathering techniques used elsewhere, advocates say that this approach may be the only way to ensure the long-term survival of the threatened species.

However, despite the proposed benefits of a switch to artificial farming, there are many experts who feel that even this is not a realistic solution. Concerns have been raised over the effectiveness of farmers, who in some cases have been shown to artificially alter their produce with chemicals such as nitrate and arsenic in order to yield a more attractive product. There is also very little evidence available over how such an approach on a wide scale would impact the environment long-term. The many layers and concerns over Swiftlet’s Nest just go to show what a contentious food this expensive treat really is.

The world is full of weird and wonderful delicacies. All cultures practise their own unique brand of cooking, incorporating an array of ingredients that range from off-putting to incomprehensible to the untrained eye. In most cases, these delicacies are a direct result of centuries of tradition and superstition. However, as modern man has evolved, flourished and spread to every corner of the planet, many practices that were once harmless today threaten the fragile fabric of various ecosystems. As Swiftlet’s Nest proves, if we want these traditions to survive, we need to reevaluate our approach. If we don't, the consequences could be dire for everyone.

Time is ripe for Malaysian Swiftlet’s Nest industry to soar

TOUTED as the caviar of the east, Swiftlet’s Nest is said to be the most expensive animal product consumed by humans.

The RM5 billion industry, with roots in Southeast Asia, has the potential to enter a new dimension and local Swiftlet’s Nest farmers are set to fly high under a new order.
Indonesia has for long dominated the Swiftlet’s Nest export chart. But massive land clearing and haze in the republic in recent years is giving Malaysia an advantage to meet demand for the product in China.
Having played second fiddle to Indonesia for years, Malaysia is en route to, once again, directly export raw edible uncleaned Swiftlet’s Nest to China.
This is a significant milestone given China’s ban on direct import of raw Swiftlet’s Nest following the 2011 scandal where harvested nests from Malaysia were tainted with high levels of nitrate.
Under the Protocol of Inspection, Quarantine and Veterinary Hygiene Requirements for the Exportation of Raw, Uncleaned, Swiftlet’s Nest, more than 10,000 Malaysian farmers will be able to export uncleaned Swiftlet’s Nest directly to China.

Sweet deal for farmers

Industry players say the new deal, which came through under the watchful eye of Agriculture and Agro-based Industry Minister Datuk Seri Ahmad Shabery Cheek, will see local farmers selling raw nests directly to the authorities here who would then export the product to China.
A RM30 million laboratory in the China-Malaysia Qinzhou Industrial Park in Guanxi, will see raw Swiftlet’s Nest from Malaysia inspected and cleaned.
Malaysia produces 380 tonnes of Swiftlet’s Nest a year but is only able to clean and process 60 tonnes.
The government is hopeful the new initiative will reduce the smuggling of Swiftlet’s Nest.
Only 19 local processing plants in Malaysia have received the Chinese government’s approval to clean raw Swiftlet’s Nest before export.
It is believed there are hundreds more processing plants, and the end products are being smuggled out of the country.
With 60,000 bird houses in the country and 20,000 industry players, the direct sale of raw Swiftlet’s Nest is set to boost the income of local farmers.
Federation of Malaysia Swiftlet’s Nest Merchants Association honorary president Datuk Tok Teng Sai said farmers are ecstatic now that they can sell raw Swiftlet’s Nest to China.
“The farmers want to know when they can start doing so,” said Tok, who represents farmers and merchants.
“I must commend Ahmad Shabery as many before him including (Tan Sri) Noh Omar, (Datuk Seri) Ismail Sabri Yaakob and even (Tan Sri) Ong Ka Ting were unable to secure such a deal for farmers.”
Tok said the plant in Guanxi is fitted with the latest equipment to process Swiftlet’s Nest.
“Eight Malaysian investors went to China,” he said, adding that the Chinese are even waiving rental for two years for Malaysians who invest there.
“It would make sense for Malaysians to invest in China as the Chinese will source for labour. Many in Malaysia face problems securing manpower here,” he said.
To ensure raw Swiftlet’s Nest is sent to China without any hiccups, the Malaysian government plans to introduce a single collection stream.
While it is expected to reduce smuggling and regulate pricing, talk is rife of a possible monopoly.
To eliminate monopoly, Tok suggests agencies, including the National Farmers’ Organisation (Nafas) or the Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority (Fama), take the lead.
“The agencies responsible must be the ones determining the price of raw Swiftlet’s Nest. It can be RM6,000 per kilogramme for example. But if the price goes beyond that, then farmers should be given the option to sell to other parties.
“This will eliminate any party from monopolising the industry.”
Tok said the ministry should also consider setting up a consultative committee comprising the government and private sector to ensure all quarters are represented.
“Farmers should also be given soft loan facilities to stock up.”
Tok says the government should ensure local processing plants are not abandoned when the new order comes into effect.
He said cleaned Swiftlet’s Nest can be sold for up to RM8,000 per kg to China but traders there sell it for up to RMB28,000 (RM17,250) per kg.
“If we only send raw Swiftlet’s Nest, then local processing plants will not benefit. The government should look into this to ensure a win-win situation for all.”

High quality product to stand out

Increasing the profit margin for farmers will encourage others, especially retirees, to venture into the trade.
Benjamin Chai, who has been building swiflet houses in Sabah and Sarawak for the past 15 years, said building the correct bird’s house is the main ingredient to a successful business.
“Eighty per cent of breeders in Malaysia fail because they don’t know how to build bird houses,” said Chai.
“They think you just need to build a house and the birds will come. That’s wrong.”
Chai, who has built 32 houses on agricultural land, said swiflet farming is a lucrative business.
He added farmers should start small and only expand their bird house when they have about 2,000 to 3,000 nests. A two-storey 20x72ft house costs between RM170,000 and RM180,000.
“If you maintain the house, you will see the returns after three years. And the returns will feed you forever,” he said.
Chai said the essential factors in building a bird house include location, building material, humidity level, good ventilation as well as sound system to not only entice swiflets but make the birds feel safe as well.
With the Swiftlet’s Nest industry expanding, Agrobank is expected to offer attractive financial facilities to industry players including farmers.
The financial institution, which focuses on the agricultural sector, has been offering credit facilities to industry players since 2008.
But over the years, the bank has been more selective in its credit assessment, given the uncertainty of the local industry.
However, a visit by the bank’s chairman Tan Sri Mohamad Zabidi Zainal and his team to Selangau, Mukah and Sibu, last month is an indication the bank is on board to ensure the new Malaysia-China Swiftlet’s Nest deal is a success.
It is understood the bank is looking into offering financial facilities to industry players and an announcement is expected in due course.
The future of Swiftlet’s Nest industry looks bright. It could very well join the Musang King as Malaysia’s champion product.